Education · 3 min read

When a serum claim becomes a drug claim

A cosmetic may promise a better appearance. The moment it promises to change how skin works, it is a drug under the law, whatever the bottle says.

The legal line

A cosmetic is intended to cleanse, beautify, promote attractiveness or alter the appearance. A product intended to affect the structure or any function of the body is a drug. Intended use is judged from claims: on the label, the website, social media, and what staff say.FDA: cosmetic or drug

Words that cross it

Appearance: “smoother-looking”, “radiant”, “hydrated look”, “visibly refreshed”. Structure or function: “stimulates collagen”, “repairs”, “regenerates cells”, “heals”, “grows hair”. The second list turns a serum into an unapproved drug in the eyes of the regulator.

Pairing a serum with a device does not change that, and a statement that a device drives a product into living tissue makes the problem worse, not better. Keep the device’s function and the topical’s appearance claim as two separate statements.

Checks before you stock a topical

Ask for the maker’s MoCRA facility registration and product listing, and its safety substantiation.FDA: MoCRA Read its marketing as a regulator would. If the maker’s own site makes drug claims, your practice inherits the problem when it repeats them.

General information for licensed practices, not legal or medical advice. Sources are linked in the text.

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